Shred potatoes using either a food processor or a hand grater (some Jewish cooks say that they taste better if done by hand). Place shredded potatoes in a large bowl of cold water. Take handfuls of the shredded potatoes and wrap them in the cheesecloth or thin towel. Squeeze gently but thoroughly over the bowl, reserving the liquid for later. Collect the squeezed-out potatoes in a bowl, you should end up with about 7 cups of shredded potato.

Beat eggs well in a large bowl. Place the squeezed shredded potato into the bowl with the beaten eggs. Add onions and flour or matzo meal to the egg and potato mixture and stir until mixed well.

Start heating oil in a large frying pan or Dutch oven over mediumhigh heat.

Take the bowl of the brown potato water to the sink, and pour out the water very carefully and slowly to reveal the potato starch that has settled to the bottom. Pour off nearly all the water, and then add the starch to the potato mixture. Stir gently to combine.

Stir in salt and pepper. (It is important to wait until now to add salt; adding it sooner will cause the potatoes to leach extra moisture.)

Make a small test latke by dropping a tablespoon of batter into the hot oil. When it is golden brown and firm, turn it with a long-handled serving spoon or slotted spoon. When both sides are a lovely golden brown, take it out, taste and add salt or adjust heat if necessary.

Use a large serving spoon or a measuring cup to drop batter for three to five latkes into the pan. (I usually can do five at time in my large pan.) Be sure they are well cooked before turning; they should be quite firm and easy to turn. Cook until both sides are golden brown.

Keep finished latkes on a towel-lined platter, or a rack set over a pan, to drain a bit as you cook the remaining batter. You can keep them in a warm oven if you are making a larger batch. Serve warm, topped with warm applesauce and a helping of sour cream or crème fraîche; I prefer the latter as a gentle complement to the applesauce.

Latkes can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week; they can also be frozen although the texture will change somewhat.

Latkes

In Jewish tradition, the celebration of the Festival of Lights, or Hanukkah, includes frying potato cakes in oil (the “hero” of the miracle story that the holiday celebrates). My daughter and I love this tradition and were eager to work on this latke recipe together, so we put our menorah on the table for inspiration and set to work.

Traditionally, latkes are served with applesauce and sour cream. I wanted to make my own applesauce from Cortlands, a variety that is readily available in Northern Michigan in fall. We started the apples cooking well before the latkes in order to have ample time to make them into sauce.

Perfect latkes are easy to make, but they do require very specific steps. None of them are difficult, but all are essential for ensuring the final outcome of crunch on the outside and fluff on the inside—little bits of potato heaven.

Before you begin, make sure you have some cheesecloth or a clean thin towel handy, as well as a couple of large bowls.

Substitution notes:

These are easily made vegan by substituting ½ cup of thin prepared oatmeal for the eggs.

Even though some recipes call for frying the latkes in olive oil to respect tradition, there are vegetable oils that fry better at high heat.