Pommes de Terre

What remains to be said of the humble pomme de terre, apple of the earth? Novels have been written about them; Trinity, a story of the Irish potato famine by Leon Uris, is just one. Shakespeare mentions them many times in Troilus and Cressida. There are entire cookbooks—and whole sections of other cookbooks—devoted to their use, and most every home cook has a favorite way of preparing them.

Potato fans owe a debt of gratitude to the ancient peoples of Peru and Bolivia, who first domesticated the starchy tubers 5,000 years ago. Centuries later, the Spanish settlers took “patatas” home with them to Europe; most of the potato varieties grown in the U.S. are of that origin. As industrial agriculture became prevalent in our country, one casualty was the range of spuds available, with the uniform Idaho russet nearly taking over in the potato department.

Thanks to customers seeking locally grown food, however, many more varieties are now available at farmers’ markets, food co-ops and specialty grocery stores. Even late into the fall and early winter, purples and reds and nice firm yellows can be found. Local potatoes have better flavor and texture than most of the imports typically found in supermarkets, so it is worth seeking them out for these special holiday potato preparations.

Ask your vendors about the types they sell and their best uses. Due to differences in starch content, not all potato varieties can be used interchangeably in every recipe. Most of these recipes use Yukon Golds or russets, because these reliable spuds are easy to procure locally. A local historical note: By 1850, hundreds of acres of farmland on Old Mission Peninsula were planted with potatoes. The crop was perfect for the macroclimate, needing cool and moist conditions; it was one of the mainstays of local agriculture well into the 1930s, when the leaders of the MSU Agricultural Extension urged farmers to diversify into fruits, especially cherries.

The following recipes have been curated for your enjoyment during the holiday season. The latkes are wonderful anytime, and the Dauphinoise is special enough to be a centerpiece dish at a large family gathering. Is there anything better than mashed potatoes? Use them for breakfast the next day, if you have leftovers. And if you need a quick addition to supper, just roast some fingerlings for fast and easy flavor.

Fun tip Some evening this season while planning your holiday menu, pour yourself a favorite beverage and watch Julia Child’s potato episode of “The French Chef” television series. (Find it on YouTube.) It is classic Julia: funny and full of cream and butter, her remedy for any ill that might befall the potato cook. Bon appétit!