At 350°, roast oranges in a pan, turning occasionally, until light brown, about 30 minutes. Slice into a big bowl, sprinkle with sugar, pour on half the wine and set aside in a cool place overnight. The next day, squeeze oranges into the wine they were sitting in, eventually wrapping oranges in a clean dishtowel to squeeze out the last bits of juice. Meanwhile, heat remaining wine until just simmering, then stir in wine/orange juice mix. Serve warm in mugs with nutmeg grated on top.

Dubbed Bishop Punch, it is also known as Smoking Bishop, perhaps because it was served in a bowl shaped much like a bishop’s headgear. It is also mentioned in the closing paragraphs of Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol, when a reformed Ebenezer Scrooge gustily promises Bob Cratchit: “I’ll raise your salary, and endeavor to assist your struggling family, and we will discuss your affairs this very afternoon over a bowl of Smoking Bishop!