Note on bacon: Slab is best for dicing, with a nice balance of meat and fat—too meaty and the jam may be chewy; too fat and it might be greasy, as the bacon fat is all kept in the recipe.

Heat oil over medium-high heat. Add bacon and brown, stirring often, for 2–3 minutes. Lower heat and add onion, carrot and celery; sweat (cook gently), stirring often, until vegetables are tender, 6–7 minutes. Add cider and vinegar and raise heat to high. Reduce the liquid until thickened, about 7–8 minutes. Add maple syrup and molasses, stirring over medium heat, until a glaze forms on the bacon. Remove from heat and stir in whole-grain mustard, pickled mustard seeds and thyme leaves.

Store in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, or freeze.