at the markets

Grill Benzie from Grow Benzie

By / Photography By | July 01, 2016
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Tacos from Grill Benzie

New food truck puts farm-to-table on wheels

Agentle breeze runs through the tall prairie grasses alongside a dirt and gravel parking lot. A few squash vines are beginning to sprawl nearby in a community garden plot. Beside it, three large hoop houses full of tomatoes loom large.

Hiding from the afternoon sun, market vendors sell everything from eggplant to emu meat on tables beneath small pop-up tents. Patrons wander the market in pairs, leafy greens erupting from the tops of their reusable totes.

The smell of bacon hangs in the air. A quiet crowd gathers around a fire-engine-red food truck. Compostable glassware and a bright orange jug filled with fresh iced tea sit atop a stainless steel perch just outside the food truck window, along with sriracha sauce and a few straws. A large piece of white paper is draped over a freestanding sign, and today’s menu is handwritten in black marker: shredded beef tacos, beans and rice, veggie burrito, bacon-lettuce-tomato sandwich—all for under $6 per meal. All with mix and match sides. All à la carte.

“I’ve been looking forward to trying the tacos on opening day, but when I smelled the bacon, I knew I had to try both,” says Josh Stoltz, between mouthfuls of an ooeygooey grilled sandwich, seeping with Traverse City’s Naturally Nutty peanut butter, bacon from Honor Family Market and local honey from Grow Benzie market vendors.

For just over a year and a half, Josh has served as executive director of Grow Benzie, a nonprofit that has been creating positive change in Benzie County for nearly eight years. With a mission of enriching the lives of Benzie County residents by increasing access to healthy foods, jobs and life skills, the organization has programs to fulfill each niche.

For instance, there are 27 community garden plots available for a $25 seasonal rental fee, which includes access to water, garden tools and support from Grow Benzie staff. There is Hive Minded, an after-school program in which youth at Benzie Central High School learn basic carpentry and woodworking skills as they build bee boxes for Sharon and Kirk Jones’s honeybee-inspired Benzie business trifecta: Sleeping Bear Farms honey, St. Ambrose Cellars meadery and BeeDazzled soap and candle shop. There are classes for the public ranging from composting to cheesemaking, from chocolate tasting to an introduction to beekeeping.

And now there is Grill Benzie, a food truck that will primarily serve produce that is grown in Grow Benzie’s own gardens, in addition to foods that are bought at local farmers’ markets. Through a partnership with Goodwill, Grow Benzie is utilizing the MI Fresh Start food truck for the summer. The truck has previously been used as a job-training program, in which trainees in the greater Grand Traverse region learn the ins and outs of a rovingfood-business model, including both “back-of-the-house” food prep and “front-of-the-house” customer service.

The same is still true of the bright red food truck: Grill Benzie will provide workforce training, support local agriculture and offer affordable fresh food options, only now with a focus on serving the Benzie County community.

“The whole idea is to feature whatever is fresh and in season,” Josh says. “This food is traveling 100 feet from where it’s grown, not 1,000 miles. And we’re teaching people every step of the way.”

Errik Malmstrom will manage all things that go on behind the food truck window. With a culinary background that includes The Homestead and Manitou Passage, Errik came highly recommended. His menu will change throughout the growing season, with a special emphasis on Southwest flavors:

A line forms out of the food truck
Customers ordering from Grill Benzie

Tacos will be a staple, often featuring beef from Misty Acres, a 600-acre preserved property that straddles the Benzie-Manistee county line. Close to 350 pounds of locally raised, grass-fed beef were recently donated by the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy, which is in charge of the Misty Acres property that a small herd of Belted Galloway cattle calls home.

In addition to the taco staples, which will also occasionally feature pulled pork or shredded chicken in place of the beef, Errik is looking forward to serving pasties, Coney dogs, kabobs and at least one rotating vegetarian option. There will also be soups made from asparagus and tomatoes, as well as salads that utilize Grow Benzie’s greens. Errik also plans to use locally made cheeses and breads when possible.

“Our community support has been a tidal wave,” Stoltz says. “Not only with our food truck and farmers’ market but with the ongoing spirit of what Grow Benzie represents in our county and throughout the region. People feel it in their hearts, and that’s what keeps them coming back.”

Find Grill Benzie every Monday 3–7 PM throughout the growing season at the Grow Benzie Farmers’ Market at 5885 Frankfort Highway/M-115, Benzonia. Grill Benzie will also be serving at the Elberta Farmers’ Market on Thursdays 8:30 AM– 12:30 PM, when the menu will shift toward breakfast items like breakfast burritos, fried-egg sandwiches and gravy and biscuits. The food truck will make regular appearances at St. Ambrose Cellars of Beulah and the soon-to-open Iron Fish Distillery of Thompsonville, as well as some summer festivals; it is also available to rent for private parties. Check Facebook.com/GrowBenzie for more information and events, or call Grow Benzie at 231-882-9510.

Grow Benzie is a nonprofit that was established in September 2008, when a 3.7-acre piece of abandoned farmland was purchased by community members who were looking for a site for community gardens. But the site ended up offering so much more than just garden space: the property has a 5,000-square-foot building with a community incubator-kitchen space and tons of seating that can be rented out for events, as well as a 3,200-square-foot, two-story house with offices and spaces for community programs like sewing and knitting; there is also a large pole barn and three industrial-sized hoop houses. Grow Benzie’s location is perfectly situated between Frankfort and Benzonia, Benzie County’s two major population centers, on a state highway with high visibility, and the Benzie Bus runs by several times a day, making the site easily accessible to every resident.

Aubrey Ann Parker is a writer living in Frankfort. Contact her at AubreyAnnParker@gmail.com.

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